Being that they have a tremendous identity problem American Syrahs can be very problematical. Are they the bruising, fruit bomb wonders similar to Australian Shiraz, or are they delicate and nuanced cool climate wines like the Northern Rhone's Cote Roties and Hermitages appellations. With Zinfandel becomming America's preferred fruit bomb wines and Pinot Noirs from the Sonoma Coast being our nuanced ones, where does that leave Syrah.
Perhaps in the middle. Last week, while attending an industry function, I had the distinct pleasure of trying the 2007 Russian River Valley Syrah from Trione Vineyards. Some of you might remember that the Trione family used to own Geyser Peak Winery, and sold it several years ago. That winery has undergone several rounds of ownership changes and rumors have it that it is on the verge of bankruptcy.
After selling the winery, the family regrouped, and now operates out of the the old Canyon Road Winery location down the road from Geyser Peak. Only producing around 5000 cases they use only the blocks from their own vineyards, making all their wines estate produced and bottled.
This Syrah is magnificent. It has all the sleekness of a northern Rhone, comoplete with the tell tale roasted meat/bacon nose, and some very interesting, and liberal sprinkling of black currants and plum fruits with just enough earth to make this have a very interesting nose. The surprise is the juicy acidity that starts in the mid pallet and works its way to a long finish with some very integrated, and deliciously chewy tannins. This combination makes you want to drink more. I'd match this wine with roasted and braised red meats, or some interesting cheeses.
All in all, this is a very successful syrah that seeks to stake out its own territory in the American Syrah landscape. If more wineries followed the Trione family's lead, the question of where American Syrah falls in the wine world will be a question that is well on its way to being answered. And at $32 a bottle, it presents a great value as well.
